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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Yes, it would be easier, 75% of the power which is still plenty. I am also using the inverter for PV, so made it pencil out. You do have the bonded neutral issue to overcome, you'd have to make a suicide plug, but possible. Better might be to get a transfer switch with a 14-30 terminal for portable generator. Could use portable generator, or the truck then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
PV is working well. Charger is working well. Haven't needed back up power, so have just been tinkering with it. Have had some successful transfers, some less successful. Still working through a few of these with sunrun's tech support.
 

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Would it be easier to just use the pro onboard power in the bed rated for 30 amps? Seems like a lot of extra expenses for an additional 10 amps. Just using it as a backfeeder to an NEMA 14-50. And manually turn off the main. Even install a safety transfer switch as a precaution. All that will give you similar results and only cost $200.
Sure. If you want a fully manual 30 backup, that will do the trick. See threads that discuss the requirement to use a neutral bond for the genset feed.
 
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Would it be easier to just use the pro onboard power in the bed rated for 30 amps? Seems like a lot of extra expenses for an additional 10 amps. Just using it as a backfeeder to an NEMA 14-50. And manually turn off the main. Even install a safety transfer switch as a precaution. All that will give you similar results and only cost $200.
It’s even easier to use some extension cords:
 
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Personally, I'm in a hurricane zone and we have threats every year. I have wanted to install a backup generator for years now, but I have limited space, and would need to upgrade the underground propane tank. Time, expense, maintenance...I just never got around to it. Tesla Powerwall seemed ideal but too small and expensive. When Ford came out with the HIS system, it seemed like a no brainer. You are already paying for the truck, which is equal to 10 Tesla Powerwall's, and the extra equipment is only $4k more. That is peanuts compared to a Generac or Kohler backup system.
Running extension cords from the truck bed is a non-starter. For one, my fridge is built-in so no way to reach the power cord, and I want to power the ceiling fans in the bedrooms, and basic lights and outlets. No AC's or major appliances. I know its going to cost $5-10K for an electrician to do a subpanel and get everything installed, but I would have to do that anyway. So might as well do it right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Kelkhorn, I'm still hoping you give us a play-by-play of your install and the problems you are having. You are laying the foundation for us!
Waiting to hear back from sunrun on remote shutdown issue, I think I know why I'm having some issues transferring at times, but not looking forward to relocating CT's/Acrel meter, especially in the cold.
 

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I have installed the Intelligent Backup system outside the SunRun service area. It took a couple of weeks and SunRun support for my electrician to get it up and running. The most significant problem was getting the Bluetooth from the truck to connect with the charger. It took multiple tries to make that connection. I have solar on the roof (non SunRun) and have also installed one Tesla PowerWall. The PowerWall provides primary backup and backup when the truck is away. The PowerWall comes on in an outage instantly and you barely see a flicker of your home lights but it is a small battery. The truck is much slower to transfer power in an outage and takes a minute or so to transfer power. We have had 2 outages since installation and the PowerWall has taken us through both without having to use the SunRun backup. This is an expensive setup and I have done it as a test case as I work with the utility sector on carbon reduction initiatives.
 

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I have installed the Intelligent Backup system outside the SunRun service area. It took a couple of weeks and SunRun support for my electrician to get it up and running. The most significant problem was getting the Bluetooth from the truck to connect with the charger. It took multiple tries to make that connection. I have solar on the roof (non SunRun) and have also installed one Tesla PowerWall. The PowerWall provides primary backup and backup when the truck is away. The PowerWall comes on in an outage instantly and you barely see a flicker of your home lights but it is a small battery. The truck is much slower to transfer power in an outage and takes a minute or so to transfer power. We have had 2 outages since installation and the PowerWall has taken us through both without having to use the SunRun backup. This is an expensive setup and I have done it as a test case as I work with the utility sector on carbon reduction initiatives.
Wow, very interesting! It’s good to hear SunRun was willing to assist you. How does the Sunrun HIS equipment integrate with the Power wall controls? Hypothetical, you come home in your Lightning to an extended outage and plug it in. How does your total system determine when it should be pulling power from the truck or recharge it if there is a lot of sun, or use power wall energy versus the truck energy at night?
 

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Thanks for all the information. I have a HIS in boxes now as I'm coordinating with the electrician. I'm still in a Sun Run state but couldn't work with them due to their lack of flexibility and insane extra charges.

I have tesla solar now, and the BDI will replace the Tesla inverter. I am also interested in the provision in the BDI for a battery back up. I believe AEE sells the LG Chem companion to the Delta HIS, for $6k. I might get that in case the truck isn't anywhere near the house.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
You can always add that battery in later.

I would also have your electrician test your rapid shutdown once he gets the inverters swapped. I'm not sure what system Tesla uses, I installed the AP smarts to match the AP Smart transmitter in my inverter. The dark start battery actually keeps the shutdown from working. SunRun just created a similar set-up at their training facility, but can't seem to replicate my issue. I did end up installing a toggle switch on the hot (red) wire from the dark start battery to the inverter, which does allow me to be code compliant. Without this, when I hit the RSD AC disconnect, the PV output would go to 0 however I still have open circuit voltage at each panel. If you have a separate DC RSD, this may not be an issue.
I have still been struggling to get my HIS registered to FordPass, but apparently they have a new system.
I would go ahead and e-mail ASAP once you get things up and going, or maybe even a little before.

Email [email protected] and provide the following information.
  • First and Last name
  • Phone number
  • Email
  • Install completion date
  • Inverter serial number (starts with a "J" or "O")
  • Charge station ID number
 
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You can always add that battery in later.

I would also have your electrician test your rapid shutdown once he gets the inverters swapped. I'm not sure what system Tesla uses, I installed the AP smarts to match the AP Smart transmitter in my inverter. The dark start battery actually keeps the shutdown from working. SunRun just created a similar set-up at their training facility, but can't seem to replicate my issue. I did end up installing a toggle switch on the hot (red) wire from the dark start battery to the inverter, which does allow me to be code compliant. Without this, when I hit the RSD AC disconnect, the PV output would go to 0 however I still have open circuit voltage at each panel. If you have a separate DC RSD, this may not be an issue.
I have still been struggling to get my HIS registered to FordPass, but apparently they have a new system.
I would go ahead and e-mail ASAP once you get things up and going, or maybe even a little before.

Email [email protected] and provide the following information.
  • First and Last name
  • Phone number
  • Email
  • Install completion date
  • Inverter serial number (starts with a "J" or "O")
  • Charge station ID number
Correct, I was planning on getting it later on.

the panels installed by tesla have their own RSD on them. They are wired directly into their inverter. I have talked to Tesla directly and looked over the drawings, there are no RSD switches to turn off DC current to their inverter, which is kind of weird. My electrician said he's going to go on the roof and take a look, he says usually there is one up there. I haven't looked yet.

That's odd about the DSB not allowing the RSD. But yeah, each panel has RSD's integrated.

So you don't use the M-pro app to monitor the inverter? The Delta BDI can use multiple apps? Or are you using a separate inverter in addition to Delta's?
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
You use the M-pro app to set-up the inverter, but it's a bluetooth connection, and as much as I like standing in my garage, it's not all that handy.
Delta has a monitoring app, but it doesn't currently work with that inverter.
I ended up installing a "Sense" meter on my main to monitor.

Definitely a big step down from SolarEdge, SMA, Tesla, etc, however as far as making electrons out of sunlight inverter has worked just fine.

As far as the RSD's, you should find out for sure if they are "Tesla" or if they are using Tigo's or APSmarts, the APSmart transmitter comes installed in the inverter, or the Tigo is around $50, would be much easier than re-inventing the wheel. I don't know enough about Tesla Solar to know what they use. It's not that wierd to not have a DC disconnect before the inverter, most inverters have a DC disconnect built in, along with the MC4 connectors at the panels that can be used to open the circuit. The RSD's should drop the voltages to a relativelly safe level.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Just looked and I guess they do make their own. Could get interesting, hopefully your electrician has done a few of these.
 

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You use the M-pro app to set-up the inverter, but it's a bluetooth connection, and as much as I like standing in my garage, it's not all that handy.
Delta has a monitoring app, but it doesn't currently work with that inverter.
I ended up installing a "Sense" meter on my main to monitor.

Definitely a big step down from SolarEdge, SMA, Tesla, etc, however as far as making electrons out of sunlight inverter has worked just fine.

As far as the RSD's, you should find out for sure if they are "Tesla" or if they are using Tigo's or APSmarts, the APSmart transmitter comes installed in the inverter, or the Tigo is around $50, would be much easier than re-inventing the wheel. I don't know enough about Tesla Solar to know what they use. It's not that wierd to not have a DC disconnect before the inverter, most inverters have a DC disconnect built in, along with the MC4 connectors at the panels that can be used to open the circuit. The RSD's should drop the voltages to a relativelly safe level.
Did you get the $250 sense home meter?

Edit i think i see it, with the solar feed.
 
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