As we've towed our 3,800lb single axle camper 25,000+ miles, I'm not sure I understand the original question, or concern, as trailer 'brakes' don't get applied until actual PHYSICAL braking is applied by the tow vehicle, the LIGHTNING. This means that the tow vehicle is ALREADY applying it's own brakes, and therefore, any REGEN of concern is happening at the same time, whether or NOT the trailer brakes are being applied. Matter-of-fact, REGEN is happening potentially BEFORE braking is applied, when going down hills, when letting off the GO pedal, etc.
The trailer 'pushing' the truck, such as when going down hills, is already going to be adding to REGEN that would not already be a part of the equation, depending on speed, conditions, etc.
In essence, the towed-weight and/or aero of the trailer are going to 'hurt' efficiencies when under regular towing scenarios, or especially uphill, but the trailer then gives 'back' some efficiencies when going downhill, or in similar situations where the trailer is now 'pushing' the truck, adding more Regen than might normally be a part of the equation.
But, there is no way to change the dynamics of the laws of physics, weight, momentum, aero, etc... it is what it is - although, as we've all come to conclude, SPEED is the main 'hurt', or 'help', depending on how you make use of it. Anytime your foot is not on the GO pedal, you are doing well. But, most drivers don't want to slow down, they want to maintain speed, which is part of what hurts towing efficiencies, especially when hills or mountains are involved.
Rather than maintain speed, maintain the amount of the GO pedal pressure, instead(otherwise known as the KW output of power from the battery).
I would like to deploy a special cruise-based DRIVE MODE Towing Setting for this exact reason: 'MAX POWER' mode, where you set the amount of KW of power as the Max Output, while towing.
You then set the CRUISE to ON, let your foot off the pedal, and have the truck maintain a speed, yes, but only up to this Max POWER OUTPUT, such as 25%. Under normal flat roadways, your 55mph set speed may be well within the max, yet, when you come into an uphill trajectory, the truck then uses no more than that max 25% KW output, even as slowing starts to occur.
Of course, as a driver, you can always add your foot to the equation, if necessary, for any situation, as needed. Some very LONG uphills may slow you to the point of needing additional speed, but for most scenarios, this would provide consistent KW power output, rather than the HUGE hits to the battery pack, to maintain a set speed, over the long run.