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Do you have a link to show Ford calling out a 80A breaker? If the charger can produce 80A then I have to multiply that by 1.25 to get 125% of that load, making the breaker size 100. And #4 isn't able to handle 100A as the wire must be sized for the breaker. The wire would need to be #3.Make sure your wire terminals are properly torqued. I'm an HVACR tech, this accounts for an unreasonable number of problems in our industry. Residential air conditioners are the largest current demand in 90% of homes, 20A-40A constant current draw is commonly seen and this level of power consumption will find crappy electrical work quickly. As soon as Ford announced the 80A breaker ~60A constant load of their charger, I knew we'd have overheating circuit problems. I believe the only actual way to ensure that your wiring terminals are properly torqued is to do it yourself, but if you had an electrician install your charger, you need to have them back out to observe the system charging the vehicle at full tilt. Without actual tools, you're looking for heat near an electrical terminal. In a simple system, that's going to be the breaker itself, and the wiring terminals for the charger. If either of these things feels warm at all, you have a problem. Ideally, you or an electrician will have access to an insulated variable torque screwdriver (mine's made by Wiha, it cost $300, yes that's pricey). All electrical terminals (breakers/disconnects/whatever) will have the required torque value printed on the body of the device. For wires up to 4 AWG the required torque is usually 40-50 in/lb depending on the device manufacturer. If you absolutely cannot get access to a tool of this sort, 40-50 in/lb applied through a screwdriver is roughly as hard as you can turn a screwdriver while also using your weight to press the screwdriver bit into the screw. Also, your wiring run to your charger is likely 6 or 4 AWG stranded, you're going to want to properly crimp the strands of the wire into a ferrule. I haven't gotten my charger yet so I don't know what type of wiring terminals it has. Certain connections don't necessarily require use of ferrules, but they are always better to use than not. Make sure the breaker that supplies the charger is properly lubricated on the back where it sets onto the mains bus with a dielectric grease. Make sure all aluminum wires have NoAlOx or similar applied, and that any and all components of the system are designed for Cu/Al (copper or aluminum) wiring. You can always use copper, with aluminum there are some extra checks to make. There will be a lot of electricians who will roll their eyes at this, but each of the considerations I mentioned are necessary for wiring in a switch or outlet if you want to do it properly. If you don't wire a switch in properly, it could last 10 years or more without problems. Switches usually handle less than an amp, this charger can draw 65. If you do a crappy job installing a 65A load, you'll have problems straight out of the gate.
