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2023 XLT SR Carbonized Grey, Nissan Leaf, Honda Clarity
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Everything else worked. Powertrain only thing impaired.
If the regular lead acid battery fails (the 12v in the frunk), the car shuts down. The 12v controls the relay that connects and disconnects the high voltage system. If the truck thinks it can’t safely manage the system, it’ll just shut down. Have the dealer check the health of the 12v. It’s a quick and easy fix. My old Bev 12v died and it gave me error messages that I thought the big battery failed.

If your truck had delays in delivery, it might have sat still and drained the 12v. Thus crystallizing the plates inside the battery.
 

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If the regular lead acid battery fails (the 12v in the frunk), the car shuts down. The 12v controls the relay that connects and disconnects the high voltage system. If the truck thinks it can’t safely manage the system, it’ll just shut down. Have the dealer check the health of the 12v. It’s a quick and easy fix. My old Bev 12v died and it gave me error messages that I thought the big battery failed.

If your truck had delays in delivery, it might have sat still and drained the 12v. Thus crystallizing the plates inside the battery.
It’s a ‘23. It hasn’t sat long enough to crystallize the 12v battery.
 

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2021 Mustang Mach E First Edition, 2016 Nissan Leaf, 2003 Toyota Tacoma, F-150 Lightning Lariat ER
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It’s a ‘23. It hasn’t sat long enough to crystallize the 12v battery.
True but sometimes parts are faulty before Ford installs them.
 

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22 Lariat ER AMBlue
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127 Posts
It’s a ‘23. It hasn’t sat long enough to crystallize the 12v battery.
Leafclarity is telling the truth and is giving solid advice. You should trust him/her.

I also speak from personal experience as this was the problem with my recent battery issue. Trust me you want it to be this problem because a 12 V and the sensor relay are readily available. It does not necessarily mean that the big battery pack is at fault.
 

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Leafclarity is telling the truth and is giving solid advice. You should trust him/her.

I also speak from personal experience as this was the problem with my recent battery issue. Trust me you want it to be this problem because a 12 V and the sensor relay are readily available. It does not necessarily mean that the big battery pack is at fault.
In my opinion, this is just unacceptable. Not only battery issues where my vehicle has to be towed to a dealership, along with mileage statements that do not exist. I’m lucky to get 190 miles on a full charge. I’m certainly not going to turn my heat off, have blankets in my truck to keep me warm or drive 60 miles an hours on the interstate. Ford needs to do something.
 

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22 Lariat ER AMBlue
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In my opinion, this is just unacceptable. Not only battery issues where my vehicle has to be towed to a dealership, along with mileage statements that do not exist. I’m lucky to get 190 miles on a full charge. I’m certainly not going to turn my heat off, have blankets in my truck to keep me warm or drive 60 miles an hours on the interstate. Ford needs to do something.
I don’t know why you would only be getting 190 miles on a full charge but it must be something to do with your vehicle or your driving habits or a combination of both. I routinely get at least 330 miles on a full charge, but I am a rather efficient driver unless I’m being playful or heavy footed.

You need to also understand that unlike ICE vehicles, EV vehicles are less efficient the higher speeds they go. They also did not get their full range as temperatures drop below 40 and again bel20. That’s going to be true of any electronic vehicle not just the lighting.

That doesn’t mean that you have to do 60 miles an hour but you have to understand that’s not where the vehicle is going to be at its most efficient. Additionally, I’ve not found that running the heat has made any difference on the mileage. Nor did using the AC.

I think your problem sounds like an outlier. I would evaluate your driving habits and look there as first line of troubleshooting.
 
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